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...just wipe it off while it's still warm.
...just wipe it off while it's still warm.
Portables - I've had a Portasol (runs on butane gas) and another with a red handle and charging station whose name I forgot.yes rosin. i think im going to get a cordless iron. i don't do much soldering but i like the freedom of no cord.
yeah, i was hoping the cordless heated faster. but i get you on being able to adjust temps is a must have. most of the soldering is on cars so i was thinking it might be a quicker fix instead of dragging a cord around.Portables - I've had a Portasol (runs on butane gas) and another with a red handle and charging station whose name I forgot.
They both suck as far as adjustability and getting hot fast.
Get a decent 40 watt iron or maybe a soldering station with adjustable temp. It's an important tool that you will use on occasion, but forever.
I bought a Weller soldering station 30 years ago that still works great.
im gonna look around and see what is out there. really would like to be cordless.I used an older one (9 or 10 years ago) worked pretty good, but really went through batteries. it used 4 AA but i never tried the lithium batteries.
this one I think:
View attachment 14279
for the last year or so at work,(before I left) we used these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BHJM3KM..._csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9kZXRhaWw&th=1 (probably not this exact one)
and my coworker 3-D printed an adapter for the RYOBI 1+ batteries we used for our work lights. it wasn't "cordless" but you didn't have to run a cord. just the cord from the iron to the battery pack. and it worked really good and heated up in under 10 sec.
for table top repairs corded would be fine but on a car i think a cordless would be good. but only if it is adjustable and enough power. just figured they might have them sorted out by now.Mine is a 60 watt Weller mains power, would love cordless but not sure I could get the same power and range of bits I need.
it just looks cleaner with shrink tube on there to me. wiring is not my favorite working on cars. i prefer engines or welding on them.I can think of nothing I would solder for an automotive connector.
They make so many crimp and pin type of connectors that are far superior IMO.
Even super rowdy race cars use crimp connectors.
You can use shrink wrap on crimp or push-on connectors, just sayin'.it just looks cleaner with shrink tube on there to me. wiring is not my favorite working on cars. i prefer engines or welding on them.
yes, but its not how i roll.You can use shrink wrap on crimp or push-on connectors, just sayin'.
yes, but its not how i roll.
my way or the highway. break stuff.
That's what hanging with @fcleff69 will do, best of luck!my way or the highway. break stuff.
i know im a bad influence on him. he's at that impressionable age.That's what hanging with @fcleff69 will do, best of luck!
You could, but are you sure you really need balanced output? It basically doubles current consumption for what is often very marginal performance gain in the case of a 10-20 foot cable fed from a low impedance source. The little buffers I make can run for at least 5-600 hours on a 9V battery, FWIW. Change your battery once a year and call it good. I have one bass using non-phantom external power on a 4 pin XLR (because options), but a 3 pin (TRS) jack will do just fine for external power if you just have to have it. EBS and others have done pedal powering that way, Maybe ironically, I'm just using a 9V battery in my external power box for now although a higher voltage rechargeable has always been in the plan.Was able to finally procure some pot. Good timing too, as I left it plugged in again. So sick of batteries in guitars. Look I'm not such a vintage snob that i can't see the idea of buffered and balanced outputs. But why couldn't we use phantom powering if we're going to do it?